Fashion Details Online Class (Week 11)

Hi guys, today we were having an online class due to our lecturer unavailability. Basically, today we did something new, unlike the previous lessons. Well, today we designed our own basic shirt which suitable for the high-end market and then changed it into a basic shirt which suitable for mid-range or low-end market level. In my case, I chose Calvin Klein as the example of high-end market level and H&M as the example of the low-end market level. 

In this task, we supposed to design depends on the instruction given by our lecturer and this is what I drew!

Basic shirt for high-end market (Calvin Klein)

As what you can see in this picture, the characteristic of this garment are a stand collar, 7 buttons and buttonholes fasteners, set in long sleeve with cuff and plackets, slightly forward shoulder seam, chest patch pocket, back yoke with two tucks, double top stitch finishes, slits at both side seam, and two black lines at the sleeve as the decoration.

Basic Shirt for Low-end market (H&M)

In this picture, the details are a stand collar, slightly forward shoulder seam, long sleeve with cuff and plackets, chest patch pockets, 7 buttons and buttonholes as fastening, back yoke, and top stitch finish.

The differences between high-end market and low-end market is that for the low-end market shirt, there are no slits at both of the side seam, no tucks at back yoke, no set in sleeve, and no decorations at the sleeves.

Retail Experience

As what I learned from retail analysis during our field trip class, there are lots of differences between each market level. Like what I stated above about the differences between high-end market and low-end market, besides the differences of the details, the quality of the details and the fabric used are also the big differences. On the other hand, the atmosphere of the store itself as well as the way they arrange their clothes are also depicts which level market are they.

Fashion Details (Week 10)

Hi guys, for this week entry, I'll discuss about product development progress as well as drawing garment by following the measurement. 

In fashion industry, before a garment was done, it went through lots of progress such as, designing, pattern cutting, prototype (toile), real garment making, finding mistakes (testing on model), and spec sheet. In case of designing, fashion designers were the one who are in charge of designing garments, while for pattern cutting, cutters cut all the pattern after they received the final design from designers. However, prototype means the patterns were pinned and stitched with using calico, which then become a sample of the garment. After the full toile was done, cutting and stitching the real fabric begin. Then, when it finished, it was tested to a model or to everyone which fit the garment in order to know the mistakes. After it went through all the process, spec sheet was made, which included technical flat drawing as part of it. Talking about technical flat drawing, in fashion industry, technical flat drawing will never change and the product which come out must be exactly the same with what was drawn in technical flat drawing. Therefore, technical flat drawing must be done accurately in order to avoid misunderstanding. At the end of the process, all the designs will be signed by the factory.

In conclusion, each part in the progress has connection with each other. Therefore, even though it is a small mistake, it will still affect each other and of course it will give changes to the final product itself. 

Well, as I said before, unlike previous lessons, this week we drew technical flat drawing by following the measurement, which means we need to measure the length, width, even the position of the pockets and other details from the garments, then transfer it to our drawing and minimize the measurement. 

Therefore, this is what I drew in class!

Front view

Back view

Front view

Well, the characteristic of this garment are hoodie with rope string, press stud and concealed opened-end metal zipper fasteners, rope string as waist suppression and at the hemline, two slanted flap jetted pockets, long sleeve with cuff fastened by a press stud.

Back view

Concealed opened-end metal zipper

In a nutshell, technical flat drawing is very important because if there are mistakes in the drawing, then other people who took part in the industry will get the effect as well.

Here are what I did during my spare time.

As you can see in this picture, the characteristic of this garment are cap sleeve, 2 chest patch pockets, 2 inside pockets around the waistline, CF seam for the skirt from the dress, and 3 shank buttons which are only for decorations

This is my technical flat drawing plus the measurements.

In this garment, it has a spread shirt collar, sleeveless, 5 buttons buttonholes as fastening, gathers at the waistline, and 2 layers of flares.  

This is how my technical flat drawings look like

As you can see in this picture, this garment details consist of a spread shirt collar, shoulder seam a little bit move forward, 5 buttons and buttonholes as fastening, 2 shoulder strap fastened by a button and buttonhole, a chest patch pocket, 2 seams at the front, shaped hemline, a strap at the hemline for both side seam fastened by a button ad buttonhole, and back yoke

Like other pictures, this is my technical flat drawing

This garment have 2 inside pockets, cuff at the hemline, front fly zipper, hook and bar as fastening,waistband, 5 belt loops in total, welt pockets at the back only for decoration.

This is the technical flat drawings of the garment 

Fashion Details (Week 9)

Well, guys for this week entry its going to be almost the same with the previous entry (Week 8), but I'll write more further about it. This week lesson, we were presenting our group work from our last field trip. I mentioned about the fashion market level as well as fashion sector, however, today I will add the differences from each market level.  

Just to review about both fashion market level and fashion sector , our group did a market level graph and fashion sector chart.

Well, in order to list the market level of the brands, its better to include the price from each brand in order to make it more accurate and we could see more obvious the position of each brands. In this graph, we didn't think of stating the price for each brand, therefore, its a very good advice from my lecturer and we will learn from it.

As you can see in this chart, we categorized each brand into every single categories, so that it will be easier to understand which brand belongs to which categories. Unfortunately, during our field trip, we couldn't manage to go to the independent, brand concession, and Singaporean (local) stores, therefore, we only could categorized it into designer brand, global designer brand, mass market, and department store.  

This is the fashion sector chart that we did for each brand that we visited during our field trip. We categorized all brands into sportswear, activity, day, occasion, and career. For the definition of each sector, I wrote it on the previous entry which is Fashion Details (Week 8). 

On the other hand, let's talk about the differences from each market level.

Well, because we went to high-end market, mid-range market, and low-end market, therefore, I'm going to compared these 3 market levels.

High-end Market, Mid-range Market, Low-end Market

High-end Market brand : Chanel

Mid-range Market brand : Abercrombie & Fitch 

Low-end Market brand : H&M

As for high-end market, we took Chanel as an example. In case of high-end market brand, they have their own characteristic which could differ them with other brands. The characteristic is their stamped buttons and zipper. Here, as you can see in the picture, Chanel has their own button and zipper trademark which differ them with other brands, as well as the low-end market of course. On the other hand, they also use a high quality fabric, for instance, tweed. Besides talking about the garment details, the atmosphere in high-end market (Chanel) also different with those in low-end market. For instance, when you went to the high-end market, you will be guided by the staff start from you enter the store till you out from the store. 

In case for the mid-range market, the quality of either the fastener or the fabric is different with those in low-end market. For instance, when you pull the zipper from those in the low-end market, sometimes it will stuck in the middle, while in mid-range market it feels smoother. On the other hand, the way they arrange their hanger in mid-range market is more compact than the high-end market, but less compact than those in low-end market.

For H&M, the garment details are not as much as those in high-end market. For instance, as you can see in this picture, this garment has a back yoke and pleat at the back and fastened by buttons and buttonholes. For the atmosphere in the low-end market, unlike those in the high-end market, sometimes it is hard to look for staffs when we need helps. In case of clothes arrangement, they usually tend to arrange it more compact unlike those in middle or high end market.

In a nutshell, the differences of the high-end market, mid-range market, and low-end market are depends on the price of the garments itself, which means, the more expensive it is, then the more intricate the details are. This happened due to the quality of their details such as, zipper, buttons, hem finishes, fabric, press studs, etc that they used for their garments. 

Thank you for reading~!

Fashion Details ( Week 8)

 Hi guys, today I'm going to write about what I discussed in class, which included fashion market level as well as fashion sector. 

Well, in case of fashion market level, the highest position is Haute Couture followed by high-end market, mid-range market, and lastly low-end market. On the other hand, the word "mass market" is the compilation from the low-end market all the way up to the high-end market, however, it will never goes to Haute Couture. 

Comparing high-end market with low-end market, of course there will be lot of differences. For instance, high-end market has more details on the garments than those in low-end market due to price differences. In my opinion, more expensive the cost, more details it has. If we take an example, Chanel, you will see there is a stamped button on it, while others don't.  Besides the garment's details, the way they arrange their cloth also have some differences. In case of high-end market, they tend to give quite a big gap between one garment with other garments due to its maintenance, while in low-end market the arrangement is quite compact without any gap in between.  

Well, during our field trip lesson, we went to some stores from the high-end market down to the low-end market. Therefore, here is the list:

1. High-end Market :
• Chanel
• Dolce & Gabbana
• Miu Miu
• Moschino
• Bimba Y Lola
• Y-3
2. Mid-range Market:
• Guess
• COS
• Abercrombie & Fitch
3. Low-end Market:
• H&M
• ZARA

For the fashion sector, there were some categorizes such as Sports, Active, Day wear, Occasion, and Career. 

Meaning :

• Sportswear: outfit worn for sport. 
• Active: casual and comfortable outfit usually wore after sports. 
• Daywear: an outfit for casual, informal, and daily activities. 
• Occasion: an outfit worn during the formal or special occasion. 
• Career: an outfit worn for job or profession. 

Sportswear

Sportswear

Active

Active

Daywear

Daywear

Career

Career

Occasion

Occasion

Bibliography:

1. http://www.msfabulous.com/2014/05/parsons-fashion-2014-part-three.html

2. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Summer-Women-Work-Dress-Fashion-Celebrity-High-Slit-Bodycon-Dresses-Business-Vestidos-Office-Lady-Career-Wear/32335574192.html 

3. http://www.gorgeautiful.com/how-to-mix-n-match-prints-and-textures-in-outfits/ 

4. http://www.fashionisers.com/fashion-news/ermanno-scervino-spring-summer-2014-rtw/

5. http://www.wholesale7.net/fall-fashion-print-color-block-zipper-fly-long-sleeve-activewear_p108793.html

6. http://fashionpulsedaily.com/tag/vpl-activewear/ 

7. http://www.lipsy.co.uk/features/lipsy-sport