Fashion Details (Content Page)

Content

1. Fashion Details (Week 2) - Types of collar, sleeves, fastening, finishes, pockets, and fabrics
   
2. Fashion Details (Week 3) - Drawing fashion flats with all details
   
3. Fashion Details (Week 4) - Drawing fashion flats from books (in library)
   
4. Fashion Details (Week 6) - Drawing fashion flats from archive room and modern garments
   
5. Fashion Details (Week 7) - Designing garments following the instructions
   
6. Fashion Details (Replacement class) - Field Trip to 313 Somerset and around Orchard
   
7. Fashion Details (Week 8) - Fashion market level and Fashion sectors
   
8. Fashion Details (Week 9) - Presentation about Field Trip
   
9. Fashion Details (Week 10) - Technical flat drawings
   
10. Fashion Details (Online Class/Week 11) - Designing for high-end market and low-end market
    
11. Fashion Details (Week 12) - Factors which differentiate high-end market garments and low-end market garments
    
12. Fashion Details (Week 14) - Reflect, recap, and rethink  

Fashion Details (Week 14)

Hi guys, this entry will be my last entry, week 14. Basically, this entry is about reflect, recap, and rethink. Well, for the whole 14 weeks in this module, I knew and learnt lots of things about fashion details. I knew about different types of collar, sleeves, pockets, fastenings, and others which I only knew very little of it when I first entered this module. Besides knowing different types of garment's details, I was also introduced to "technical flat drawing" and "fashion flat drawing", which basically I don't really know what are those in the beginning of the module. Therefore, through this 14 weeks, I knew more in-depth about it, and now I'm able to draw technical flat drawings as well as fashion flats in a proper and correct way, although I need more practice about it. 

On the other hand, instead of learning all about drawing and designing, now I also know more in-depth about market sectors and fashion hierarchy curve, which were very important to know in fashion industry. Through market sectors and fashion hierarchy curve, now I'm able to know which position are those fashion brands and it indirectly influence me on how I designing my clothes. Talking about designing, one thing that differentiate expensive garments and cheap garments are not about the details or the designs at all, it is about the quality of the fabric or other materials used to make those garments, for instance, what fabric was used, where the fabric was made, what type of fastenings were used, and many others.

In a nutshell, through this module, I learnt lots of new things about the process to be a fashion designer. Although this is only the very beginning -which I still have 2 more years to go till I graduate my diploma-, I will continue what I should do and keep trying hard for the next coming semester, 

Thank you for reading~!

Fashion Details (Week 12)

Hi guys, unlike previous lessons, this week lesson we discussed about how to differenciate high-end market level garments with those in low-end market regardless of the designs. Therefore, here is what me and my friend came up with the ideas:

1. Buying materials in bulk.

In this case, for instance, if we buy 10.000 buttons compared to just buy around 10 buttons, the price of 1 button for buying 10.000 buttons will much cheaper than those buying around 10 buttons. Therefore, total quantity of the materials also affect the price of a garment.

2. Lower quality of fabric, fastenings, other materials.

The quality of fabric, fastenings, or other materials are the most obvious aspects which could determine the price differences of each garments. For instance, if we compared the zipper from a high-end market garment with that from a low-end market garment, we will feel that those from the high-end market level is smother and easier to pull up or down, while for those in the low-end market level sometimes the zipper will stuck in the middle when we pull it up or down.

3. Places where the materials were made.

In this section, places where the materials were made is important because it also affect the price of the garment itself. As what we know, there are some countries which are known for their garment sources such as, China, Hong Kong, Italy, France, Spain, Germany, India, Turkey, etc. Among these countries of course there will be some differences, for instance, the quality of their materials which could determined the price differences between one country with others.

4. Packaging.

Besides all the aspects above, packaging is the other factors which could affect the price of a garment. In this case, packaging covered all about import and export whether its fabric, materials, or others. Therefore, due to the international trading, shipping cost must be included which is different from each countries.


However, instead of looking through the materials to differenciate between high-end market with low-end market, everything which was happened inside the industry was also contribute to the cost of a garment. Therefore, me and my friend categorized all the ideas into major and minor.

Major : labour cost, design pricing, machinery

a. Labour cost 
Labour cost can included about the designs complexity which affect on how much time they spend as well as how many staff they hired. The more complex the design are, then the more time it was spent.

b. Design pricing
Design pricing means how much money spent to buy the designs from fashion designers. In fact, design pricing is the major aspect which could affect the cost of a garment itself.

c. Machinery 
Like the design pricing, machinery is also very important because it was used to produce all the garments. In order to produce a good or high quality garments, despite focusing on the materials for the garment, we also need to focus what machinery are we going to use.

Minor : logistics and overhead cost

i. Logistics
Logistics is basically about getting things from one place to another place, which similar to shipping cost and packaging cost.

ii. Overhead cost 
Overhead cost covered all expenses except for direct labours, direct materials, and direct expenses. On the other hand, overhead cost can be said about tax, administrative, gas, tax, electricity, rental cost, advertising, insurance, repairs, etc.


Well, now I'm going to write about things that contribute to the high-end market level garment:

1. High quality fabrics
For the high-end market fabric, they have their own hand-made fabric, for instance, Coco Chanel fabric which is the twill fabric.

2. High quality fastenings
Like the fabric for high-end market, fastenings from the high-end market garment also have their brand trademark, for instance, Gucci, Chanel, Michael Kors, etc.

3. Finishes
In this case, for the high-end market garment, the finishes are very neat compared to those in the low-end market garment which usually just top stitched and overlock. Unlike the low-end market garment, those in the high-end market sometimes they used double fold top stitched or even hand rolled finishes.

4. Concealed fastenings
Concealed fastenings means when we take a look of the garment from the high-end market, they add another layer to hid the zipper or button and buttonholes, so that it looks neat and clean.

5. Tailoring
6. Conscientious workmanship 


For addition, there are plenty types of leather, such as:
a. Deerskin
b. cow
c. goatskin
d. nubuck
e. crocodile
f. snake
g. kangaroo
h. yaks
i. lamb
j. pigskin
k. camel
l. horse
m. fish

Here is some leather which is categorized into fish leather:
1. salmon

2. perch

3. wolf-fish

4. eel

5. tilapia

6. shark

In a nutshell, there are not much design differences between garment from the high-end market with the low-end market, however, other aspects such as, shipping cost, material cost, labour cost, overhead cost, logistics, etc are the major and minor aspects which could affect the price of a garment.

Thank you for reading~!

Bibliography:

1. http://www.ecouterre.com/salmon-leather-a-fishy-fabric-but-will-designers-take-the-bait/salmon-leather-5/ 

2. http://www.dreamsequins.com/2010/03/accessorize-this-accessories-from-sea.html 

3. http://swipelife.com/2011/03/mors-footwear-wolf-fish-run-sneakers/ 

4. http://www.pelleline.com/mezlan_shoes_mens/pid-1590.html 

5. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Eco-Dyed-Genuine-Fish-Skin-Leather-Piece-10-26CM-for-Sandal-Decoration-Bag-Free-Shipping/32356641784.html 

6. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/fish-skin-leather 

7. http://blog.samuel-windsor.co.uk/really-wild-leather-shoes 

8. http://www.exotic-skin.com/species/shark-leather-hides/ 

Fashion Details Online Class (Week 11)

Hi guys, today we were having an online class due to our lecturer unavailability. Basically, today we did something new, unlike the previous lessons. Well, today we designed our own basic shirt which suitable for the high-end market and then changed it into a basic shirt which suitable for mid-range or low-end market level. In my case, I chose Calvin Klein as the example of high-end market level and H&M as the example of the low-end market level. 

In this task, we supposed to design depends on the instruction given by our lecturer and this is what I drew!

Basic shirt for high-end market (Calvin Klein)

As what you can see in this picture, the characteristic of this garment are a stand collar, 7 buttons and buttonholes fasteners, set in long sleeve with cuff and plackets, slightly forward shoulder seam, chest patch pocket, back yoke with two tucks, double top stitch finishes, slits at both side seam, and two black lines at the sleeve as the decoration.

Basic Shirt for Low-end market (H&M)

In this picture, the details are a stand collar, slightly forward shoulder seam, long sleeve with cuff and plackets, chest patch pockets, 7 buttons and buttonholes as fastening, back yoke, and top stitch finish.

The differences between high-end market and low-end market is that for the low-end market shirt, there are no slits at both of the side seam, no tucks at back yoke, no set in sleeve, and no decorations at the sleeves.

Retail Experience

As what I learned from retail analysis during our field trip class, there are lots of differences between each market level. Like what I stated above about the differences between high-end market and low-end market, besides the differences of the details, the quality of the details and the fabric used are also the big differences. On the other hand, the atmosphere of the store itself as well as the way they arrange their clothes are also depicts which level market are they.

Fashion Details (Week 10)

Hi guys, for this week entry, I'll discuss about product development progress as well as drawing garment by following the measurement. 

In fashion industry, before a garment was done, it went through lots of progress such as, designing, pattern cutting, prototype (toile), real garment making, finding mistakes (testing on model), and spec sheet. In case of designing, fashion designers were the one who are in charge of designing garments, while for pattern cutting, cutters cut all the pattern after they received the final design from designers. However, prototype means the patterns were pinned and stitched with using calico, which then become a sample of the garment. After the full toile was done, cutting and stitching the real fabric begin. Then, when it finished, it was tested to a model or to everyone which fit the garment in order to know the mistakes. After it went through all the process, spec sheet was made, which included technical flat drawing as part of it. Talking about technical flat drawing, in fashion industry, technical flat drawing will never change and the product which come out must be exactly the same with what was drawn in technical flat drawing. Therefore, technical flat drawing must be done accurately in order to avoid misunderstanding. At the end of the process, all the designs will be signed by the factory.

In conclusion, each part in the progress has connection with each other. Therefore, even though it is a small mistake, it will still affect each other and of course it will give changes to the final product itself. 

Well, as I said before, unlike previous lessons, this week we drew technical flat drawing by following the measurement, which means we need to measure the length, width, even the position of the pockets and other details from the garments, then transfer it to our drawing and minimize the measurement. 

Therefore, this is what I drew in class!

Front view

Back view

Front view

Well, the characteristic of this garment are hoodie with rope string, press stud and concealed opened-end metal zipper fasteners, rope string as waist suppression and at the hemline, two slanted flap jetted pockets, long sleeve with cuff fastened by a press stud.

Back view

Concealed opened-end metal zipper

In a nutshell, technical flat drawing is very important because if there are mistakes in the drawing, then other people who took part in the industry will get the effect as well.

Here are what I did during my spare time.

As you can see in this picture, the characteristic of this garment are cap sleeve, 2 chest patch pockets, 2 inside pockets around the waistline, CF seam for the skirt from the dress, and 3 shank buttons which are only for decorations

This is my technical flat drawing plus the measurements.

In this garment, it has a spread shirt collar, sleeveless, 5 buttons buttonholes as fastening, gathers at the waistline, and 2 layers of flares.  

This is how my technical flat drawings look like

As you can see in this picture, this garment details consist of a spread shirt collar, shoulder seam a little bit move forward, 5 buttons and buttonholes as fastening, 2 shoulder strap fastened by a button and buttonhole, a chest patch pocket, 2 seams at the front, shaped hemline, a strap at the hemline for both side seam fastened by a button ad buttonhole, and back yoke

Like other pictures, this is my technical flat drawing

This garment have 2 inside pockets, cuff at the hemline, front fly zipper, hook and bar as fastening,waistband, 5 belt loops in total, welt pockets at the back only for decoration.

This is the technical flat drawings of the garment 

Fashion Details (Week 9)

Well, guys for this week entry its going to be almost the same with the previous entry (Week 8), but I'll write more further about it. This week lesson, we were presenting our group work from our last field trip. I mentioned about the fashion market level as well as fashion sector, however, today I will add the differences from each market level.  

Just to review about both fashion market level and fashion sector , our group did a market level graph and fashion sector chart.

Well, in order to list the market level of the brands, its better to include the price from each brand in order to make it more accurate and we could see more obvious the position of each brands. In this graph, we didn't think of stating the price for each brand, therefore, its a very good advice from my lecturer and we will learn from it.

As you can see in this chart, we categorized each brand into every single categories, so that it will be easier to understand which brand belongs to which categories. Unfortunately, during our field trip, we couldn't manage to go to the independent, brand concession, and Singaporean (local) stores, therefore, we only could categorized it into designer brand, global designer brand, mass market, and department store.  

This is the fashion sector chart that we did for each brand that we visited during our field trip. We categorized all brands into sportswear, activity, day, occasion, and career. For the definition of each sector, I wrote it on the previous entry which is Fashion Details (Week 8). 

On the other hand, let's talk about the differences from each market level.

Well, because we went to high-end market, mid-range market, and low-end market, therefore, I'm going to compared these 3 market levels.

High-end Market, Mid-range Market, Low-end Market

High-end Market brand : Chanel

Mid-range Market brand : Abercrombie & Fitch 

Low-end Market brand : H&M

As for high-end market, we took Chanel as an example. In case of high-end market brand, they have their own characteristic which could differ them with other brands. The characteristic is their stamped buttons and zipper. Here, as you can see in the picture, Chanel has their own button and zipper trademark which differ them with other brands, as well as the low-end market of course. On the other hand, they also use a high quality fabric, for instance, tweed. Besides talking about the garment details, the atmosphere in high-end market (Chanel) also different with those in low-end market. For instance, when you went to the high-end market, you will be guided by the staff start from you enter the store till you out from the store. 

In case for the mid-range market, the quality of either the fastener or the fabric is different with those in low-end market. For instance, when you pull the zipper from those in the low-end market, sometimes it will stuck in the middle, while in mid-range market it feels smoother. On the other hand, the way they arrange their hanger in mid-range market is more compact than the high-end market, but less compact than those in low-end market.

For H&M, the garment details are not as much as those in high-end market. For instance, as you can see in this picture, this garment has a back yoke and pleat at the back and fastened by buttons and buttonholes. For the atmosphere in the low-end market, unlike those in the high-end market, sometimes it is hard to look for staffs when we need helps. In case of clothes arrangement, they usually tend to arrange it more compact unlike those in middle or high end market.

In a nutshell, the differences of the high-end market, mid-range market, and low-end market are depends on the price of the garments itself, which means, the more expensive it is, then the more intricate the details are. This happened due to the quality of their details such as, zipper, buttons, hem finishes, fabric, press studs, etc that they used for their garments. 

Thank you for reading~!

Fashion Details ( Week 8)

 Hi guys, today I'm going to write about what I discussed in class, which included fashion market level as well as fashion sector. 

Well, in case of fashion market level, the highest position is Haute Couture followed by high-end market, mid-range market, and lastly low-end market. On the other hand, the word "mass market" is the compilation from the low-end market all the way up to the high-end market, however, it will never goes to Haute Couture. 

Comparing high-end market with low-end market, of course there will be lot of differences. For instance, high-end market has more details on the garments than those in low-end market due to price differences. In my opinion, more expensive the cost, more details it has. If we take an example, Chanel, you will see there is a stamped button on it, while others don't.  Besides the garment's details, the way they arrange their cloth also have some differences. In case of high-end market, they tend to give quite a big gap between one garment with other garments due to its maintenance, while in low-end market the arrangement is quite compact without any gap in between.  

Well, during our field trip lesson, we went to some stores from the high-end market down to the low-end market. Therefore, here is the list:

1. High-end Market :
• Chanel
• Dolce & Gabbana
• Miu Miu
• Moschino
• Bimba Y Lola
• Y-3
2. Mid-range Market:
• Guess
• COS
• Abercrombie & Fitch
3. Low-end Market:
• H&M
• ZARA

For the fashion sector, there were some categorizes such as Sports, Active, Day wear, Occasion, and Career. 

Meaning :

• Sportswear: outfit worn for sport. 
• Active: casual and comfortable outfit usually wore after sports. 
• Daywear: an outfit for casual, informal, and daily activities. 
• Occasion: an outfit worn during the formal or special occasion. 
• Career: an outfit worn for job or profession. 

Sportswear

Sportswear

Active

Active

Daywear

Daywear

Career

Career

Occasion

Occasion

Bibliography:

1. http://www.msfabulous.com/2014/05/parsons-fashion-2014-part-three.html

2. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Summer-Women-Work-Dress-Fashion-Celebrity-High-Slit-Bodycon-Dresses-Business-Vestidos-Office-Lady-Career-Wear/32335574192.html 

3. http://www.gorgeautiful.com/how-to-mix-n-match-prints-and-textures-in-outfits/ 

4. http://www.fashionisers.com/fashion-news/ermanno-scervino-spring-summer-2014-rtw/

5. http://www.wholesale7.net/fall-fashion-print-color-block-zipper-fly-long-sleeve-activewear_p108793.html

6. http://fashionpulsedaily.com/tag/vpl-activewear/ 

7. http://www.lipsy.co.uk/features/lipsy-sport 

Fashion Details (Replacement Class)

Hi guys, this week lesson was our Fashion Details Replacement Class. Unlike the previous lesson, this week lesson we went to 313 Somerset and around Orchard to do our primary research garment's details. Well, we have given choices from the high-end stores all the way to the lower-end stores. Instead of focusing on the lower-end stores, we went to the high-end stores because they have more details and they used wide range of fabrics.

Discussing about high-end stores, I want to share a bit about my favourite fashion brand. Well, I like Chloe very much , which was founded by Gaby Aghion, a French Fashion Designer. I like the unique designs and the fabric used. It looks simple yet fashionable.

Here are some designs that I like!

Here is what me and my friend, Ang Hui En did during our field trip.

MALL:

313 Somerset

Store Name

ZARA

Market level Please circle

Mass market

Independent

Designer Brand

Global Brand

Department Store / Brand concession

Merchandise sector? Please circle

Sports wear

Active

Day wear

Occasion

Career

Details

Notched collar

The notched collar was top stitched and was fastened by an opened-end metal zipper.

Flap welt pocket

This flap pocket was top stitched and fastened by a press stud

Concealed button

This garment was fastened by a concealed button and buttonholes. It has one other layer of fabric which was sewn just under the concealed fabric to serve as the buttonholes.

Back Yoke

Back yoke with double top-stitched

Semi Spread Collar		Semi spread collar with double top stitched and button underneath.
Cuff with Slit		This cuff has slit with double top stitched
Shaped Hem		This garment has a shaped and asymmetric hem at front and back

Keyhole with button and buttonhole		This garment has a unique collar which is a spread collar but it was turn to the back instead of in front. It also has a keyhole which was fastened by a button and buttonhole.
Flap patch pocket		Flap patch pocket with top stitched

MALL:

Mandarin Gallery

Store Name

Yohji Yamamoto

Market level Please circle

Mass market

Independent

Designer Brand

Global Brand

Department Store / Brand concession

Merchandise sector? Please circle

Sports wear

Active

Day wear

Occasion

Career

Details

Two way head to head zipper

This zipper has two sliders which can be separated by pulling it all the way to up or down.

Welt pocket

Welt pocket with top stitched

Deep raglan sleeve

This garment has a really unique and beautiful characteristic which is a very deep raglan sleeve.

Pleats

Pleats at the back of the garment

MALL:

Takashimaya

Store Name

Moschino

Market level Please circle

Mass market

Independent

Designer Brand

Global Brand

Department Store / Brand concession

Merchandise sector? Please circle

Sports wear

Active

Day wear

Occasion

Career

Details

Cord toggle

This garment has a cord toggle as waist suppression.

Set-in sleeve

This garment has a set-in sleeve which means a little bit drop from the should and at the end of the sleeve, it was fastened by a cord toggle

MALL:

Takashimaya

Store Name

Calvin Klein

Market level Please circle

Mass market

Independent

Designer Brand

Global Brand

Department Store / Brand concession

Merchandise sector? Please circle

Sports wear

Active

Day wear

Occasion

Career

Details

Back yoke and center back seam

This garment has a back yoke and center back seam at the back of the garment, and short Dolman sleeve.

Fly front zipper

In this garment, the fasteners are a fly front zipper and a button and buttonhole.

Hook and Bar

This long trouser was fastened by a hook and bar

Welt pockets

Two welt pockets at the back of the garment

MALL:

Mandarin Gallery

Store Name

BIMBA Y LOLA

Market level Please circle

Mass market

Independent

Designer Brand

Global Brand

Department Store / Brand concession

Merchandise sector? Please circle

Sports wear

Active

Day wear

Occasion

Career

Details

Hem rolled finishing

This garment has a hem rolled finishing which means instead of overlocking, it was rolled up and sewn on it.

Shirring

Just at the bottom of the front yoke, there is shirring which usually sewn by using an elastic thread. On the other hand, the sleeve also has a little bit of gathering at the armhole seam.

Hook and eye

At the back of this garment, there is a hook and eye fastener and a keyhole neckline.